Many models have thermo-formable liner, which can be heated up and adjusted to the shape of the foot when purchased in specialist shops. This prevents pressure points, minimizes play and thus prevents friction points and blisters. All touring ski boots have a hiking mechanism that allows the shaft to move forwards and backwards during the ascent, thus enabling a largely ergonomic walking movement. The mechanism is usually located on the back of the boot. In order to avoid blisters, the liner should be laced tightly and at least the buckles on the front foot should be closed with moderate tension. In the upper part of the shaft, however, as much “air” and freedom of movement as possible is required. Therefore, the buckles should only be hooked in, but not tightened. If available, close the shin webbing as loose as possible. On some Dalbello models (so-called convertible constructions), the tongue can also be removed in order to achieve maximum freedom of movement with as little resistance as possible. An important rule is: the more freedom of movement around the shaft, the more comfortable the ascent. Always make sure that open buckles and Velcro fasteners do not hang loose, so as not to get caught up while hiking.
For the best possible power transfer to the binding or touring ski, the hiking mechanism must of course be locked before the descent. Make sure that it engages and locks correctly, otherwise it can come loose again unintentionally. Re-lace the liner, if necessary reinsert the tongue and then close all buckles with sufficient tension. As with normal ski boots, regulate in such a way that a sufficient upper flexibility remains and the foot still sits comfortably in the boot. The exact settings depend on the rider’s weight, foot shape, skiing style and ability. Under no circumstances should pressure points develop or with too much pressure” the foot begins to fall asleep“ and become numb.